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Front wheel bearing issues can often be determined by loading the wheel that is suspect for the bearing to be bad. By turning the wheel left or right this will place the weight of the vehicle on or off of the suspect side. If the noise increases with load then you must replace that wheel bearing.
| STEP 1 | Unload the suspension upper control arm by putting blocks or spark plugs between the arm and the car body. |
| STEP 2 | Remove the wheel center cap and remove the outer CV nut |
| STEP 4 | Remove the tierod end nut |
| STEP 5 | Remove the 2 upper balljoint bolts and the 2 lower bolts. In some cases these bolts will get welded in the balljoints. If this occurs cut the bolt heads and nut ends off and pull out the bolt and replace with new ones |
| STEP 6 | Remove the brake caliper with handbrake cable (if equipped) |
| STEP 7 | Remove the brake rotor |
| STEP 8 | Remove the steering knuckle (you can now see the bearing |
| STEP 9 | Remove both the inner and outer circlips that hold the bearing in the knuckle |
| STEP 10 | Press the bearing out using a tool that will fit the OUTER race on the bearing |
 | Be careful when pressing this bearing out. You can get hurt because of the flying parts. In some cases you may have to press on the inner bearing race to force the bearing to come apart |
| STEP 11 | When refitting the new bearing Saab actually came out with shims that would take up the space between the circlip and bearing face. The purpose of those shims were to prevent popping when backing and turning. What many technicians found is that using RED loctite on the outsides of the bearing as the lubricant during the bearing press seemed to function equally as well to prevent this from ocurring. If you decide to use the red loctite trick be sure to clean all of excess loctite from the bearings being careful not to allow any in the internal workings of the bearings itself |
| STEP 12 | Refit the bearing in reverse and reassemble in reverse |
Pricing for Front Wheel Bearings & Related (Wheel Bearings & Related) |