Saab Frequently Asked Questions
A special thanks to Helga & Dmitry Platonoff for the contribution of this material and some other materials listed on the sites faqs pages. It is Saab enthusiast like Dmitry that make it easier for the DYI guys that frequent the internet. Excellent Job!!!!
Outer CV boot replacement on a 1996 Saab 900SE turbo. The repair had to be done because the old boot developed a crack and started leaking grease.
Tools and supplies:
new CV boot kit: boot, clamps, snap ring and grease;
32 mm socket: hub centre nut;
18 mm socket: tie rod nut;
17 mm socket: wheel bolts;
15 mm socket: control arm to subframe bolt;
13 mm socket: lower sway bar link nut;
11 mm open wrench: upper part of sway bar link;
10 mm Allen key: caliper bolts;
5 mm Allen key: ABS sensor screws, rotor index screw;
car jack and axle stands;
C-clamp: for tightening the tie rod end;
Hub nut: With the car still on the ground, remove the centre cap from the wheel and loosen the hub nut using a 32 mm socket and a breaker bar. Loosen the wheel bolts while you're at it too (17 mm socket).
RIM: Raise the car and remove the wheel. These little grease splatters on the inside on the rim are a clear sign of the problem. The side where the grease is concentrated the most can help locate the crack in the boot.
Caliper: Undo the hub hut completely. Remove the caliper (10 mm Allen socket) and hang it onto something so no load is placed on the brake line
Tie Rod: Clamp the tie-rod and undo the nut (18 mm socket). Use a gear puller to separate the rod end. You may also remove the ABS sensor to clear the way (5 mm Allen key).
Control Arm: Disconnect the anti-roll bar link from the control arm. Use a 13 mm socket on the nut and a 11 mm spanner on the top end.
Rotor Off: Remove the index screw and take the rotor off.
Axle Out: If you have a proper ball-joint separator (NOT a fork-type!), you can undo the ball joint. I found it easier to unbolt the control arm from the subframe instead (15 mm socket). Tilt the strut out of the way and pull the axle out.
Clamps: Remove the old clamps from the boot with a chisel or a big screwdriver. Slide the boot up the shaft and start removing the grease. The joint is firmly seated on the driveshaft and secured by a snap ring.
Joint Out: Once you dig the ring from under the layer of grease, do you best to remove it. I ended up pulling it out with vice-grips, which straightened it completely (and thus destroyed). Gently tap the CV joint until it comes off the axle.
Joint Out: This is where the crack in the boot was. It didn't seem big, and there was enough grease to last for the next half a year until it all leaks out, but I didn't want to take my chances.
Cleaned Up: Clean everything thoroughly to wipe out all of the old grease. Do not let the dirt to get into the joint from now on
New Boot Kit: Here's the new boot kit. It contains a new boot, two stainless clamps, a replacement snap ring and a tube of fresh grease.
Put boot on: Put the boot on and inspect how the joint assembly connects to the axle.
Pack with Grease: Put the new snap ring into the joint so the angled ends are seated in the opening in the star-shaped centre part, and fill the bearing with grease.
Put the boot on: There are grooves in the joint body and the axle that help you position the boot properly. Put the clamp on.
Install boot and clamp: Gently tap the joint on until the ring clicks into the groove in the shaft.
Crimping: If you don't have a specialized crimping tool, the job can be done with a pair of thin Allen keys and the mighty vice-grips.
Second Clamp: Put the second clamp on and inspect the boot.
Put Axle in Hub: Insert the axle into the hub.
Install Control Arm: Bolt the control arm to the subframe (85 ft-lbs) then connect the anti-roll bar link (8 ft-lbs). Clamp and tighten the tie-rod end (55 ft-lbs), install the ABS sensor.
Install Rotor: Install the rotor and the caliper (87 ft-lbs). Bolt the hub nut on reasonably tight. Put the wheel on (84 ft-lbs) and lower the car to the ground. Tighten the hub nut to 214 ft-lbs.
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