Saab Frequently Asked Questions
Nice Suggestion from Mike L before starting this procedure. I recently replaced the engine mounts on my 2001 saab 93. I suggest that the scheme provided on your site be modified to install the right and left mount one at a time but leave bolts to frame loose, then remove and replace and tighten the rear mount. I lifted the rear of the engine with a single jack. then tightened the two other mounts. It was easier than fighting the installed and torqued mounts up front.
A special thanks to Helga & Dmitry Platonoff for the contribution of this material and some other materials listed on the sites faqs pages. It is Saab enthusiast like Dmitry that make it easier for the DYI guys that frequent the internet. Excellent Job!!!! Engine mount replacement on the 1996 Saab 900. The old mounts were severely worn and broken, which caused excessive engine movement and shifting difficulty at high boost.
17 mm socket (rear mount);
16 mm socket (rear and transmission mounts);
15 mm socket (side mounts);
13 mm socket (gearshift linkage);
10 mm socket (throttle body inlet, plastic shields);
8 mm socket (plastic shields);
8 mm Allen socket (passenger side mount);
two L-shaped 3 mm Allen keys;
long socket extension;
flat screwdriver (throttle body clamps);
hydraulic jacks and stands.
Raise the front end of the car and remove the lower shields under the bumper. The wheels are turned to the right to get an access to the serpentine belt cover.
Support the transmission with a jack (the differential case looks like a good jacking point). Don't raise it too high, just make sure it takes the weight off the transmission mount.
Locate the transmission mount under the left fender. Slacken the 15 mm bolts that secure it to the car body and make sure the jack supports the engine/transmission properly.
Remove the bolts attaching the mount to the car body. Unbolt the mount from the angle bracket on the transmission (16 mm socket). Remove the mount from the car.
The old mount is cracked. Its bracket it so thin I can bend it with my bare hands. You can see how much stronger the sport mount is. It has a thick metal frame that doesn't allow any flex.
The Taliaferro mount is completely filled with polyurethane, while the stock mount has three relatively soft rubber sections. The old rubber spacer is no longer needed, you can discard it.
Attach the mount to the bracket, then put in the bolts attaching it to the side member. You might need to raise or lower the jack to make it fit. Tighten the bracket bolts to 29 ft-lbs.
Tighten the remaining two bolts to 54 ft-lbs. It's a pity such a beautiful piece of hardware remains hidden from view.
The passenger side engine mount is located under the right fender. Support the oil pan with a jack and loosen the 15 mm bolts holding the mount to the car body.
There's only one bolt going to the engine bracket, but if the mount is worn and sagging, there's a chance the bolt head won't match the hole anymore, so you'll have to hunt it inside the mount with a long 8 mm Allen key.
All bolts are out, and the mount is removed from the car. You can immediately see how deformed it is compared to the new mount. The engine sat so low the oil pan was touching the sub frame every time the engine moved.
This shows how the bolt does not match the hole anymore. You can force it through, but with a limited clearance under the fender it is not a easy task. In fact, with a bit of load placed on the mount, the bolt hides from view completely.
The torque values for this mount are the same: 29 ft-lbs for the bolt in the centre, and 54 ft-lbs for the bolts going to the side member.
There are two nuts attaching the rear mount to the sub frame from below. On my car one of the nuts was 16 mm and another 17 mm. I'm not sure if this is always the case, so be prepared.
The third nut attaches the top of the rear mount to the engine bracket. You can reach it using a long extension with a U-joint. Removing the throttle body inlet pipe just gives you enough room to work. You can see that I took this opportunity to clean the throttle body and the IAC valve.
The nut itself is 16 mm. Unfortunately, there's very little room to get to it and apply proper leverage, that's why a long extension works better. I've also disconnected the gearshift rod from the linkage to get more freedom in lifting the engine. If you do that, don't forget to align it afterwards.
The engine is now supported with two jacks: under the oil pan and the differential. This allows to lift it as much as possible to create enough room to remove the mount. When lifting the engine, be careful not to jam or break any hoses or other parts.
Even with the engine tilted to the max, there's barely enough room to wrestle the mount in or out. The Saab Manual actually orders you to lower the entire sub frame instead. For some silly reason it also calls for removing the wheels for the side mounts.
This mount was in the worst shape of all -- it was torn completely, and the hydraulic fluid apparently leaked long time ago.
The big washer goes on top of the mount with the cut-out facing the rear of the car. Put the new mount in, remove the supporting jacks and torque all three nuts to 29 ft-lbs. Done!
Pricing for 9000 (1985-1998) Crash parts (Front & center floor)
Pricing for 9000 (1985-1998) Engine Mounts (Engine mounts)
Pricing for 900 (1994-1998) Alternators, belts & pulleys (Alternator: 70a)
Pricing for 900 (1994-1998) Alternators, belts & pulleys (Alternator: 90a)
Pricing for 900 (1994-1998) Engine Mounts (Engine mounts)
Pricing for 900 (1986-1994) Clutch & Related (Clutch pedal)
Pricing for 900 (1986-1994) Engine Mounts (Engine mounts hydraulic)
Pricing for 900 (1986-1994) Engine Mounts (Engine mounts solid)
Pricing for 92x (2005-2006) Engine Mounts (Engine mounts: front)
Pricing for 93 (1999-2003) Engine Mounts (Engine mounts)
Pricing for 95 (1999-2009) Engine Mounts (Engine mounts)