Crank Pulley Replacement (detailed)
[Saab 900 16V-NT, 900 16V-T, 900 2.1-NT, 900 8V-NT, 900 8V-T]
The FRONT CRANK pulley on the 900 cars have been through numerous design changes to make it better. If your belts are making noise and they are tight ... the Front Crank Pulley is likely coming apart or the two halves are separating.
|STEP 1 ||Remove the AC and Power steering belt|
|STEP 2 ||Remove the 4 10 mm bolts that hold the outer crank pulley (the gold looking outer piece) (use a shallow 10 MM |
|STEP 3 ||Use a remote starter to bump the engine over to access each bolt or rock the car forward while in gear (manual)|
|STEP 4 ||Remove the crank bolt (30mm on 81-90) 27mm on 90 on) You will need the long wrench and socket from Saab. You can use the starter motor to break the pulley bolt loose by bumping the engine over while resting the long extension against the compressor or the frame (DISABLE THE IGNITION SYSTEM! YOU DON'T WANT THE ENGINE TO START WITH THE BREAKER BAR ATTACHED!) be careful not to break the evaporator housing by slamming the extension into the housing) The pulley can be difficult to get off but should come off with some work.|
|STEP 5 ||The seal for the oil pump housing is just behind the pulley and in many cases the seal will come off on the back of the pulley. When installing the new seal use Loctite around the outside of the seal and mount it flush with the edge of the oil pump housing. |
|STEP 6 ||At this point it is a good idea to go ahead and remove the oil pump and replace its O-ring. The O-ring is soft when new. As it ages, it hardens and shrinks and looses its ability to seal. Remove the 10 mm bolts (7 ft lbs during reinstall) and the two 12 or 13 mm bolts securing it to the oil pump housing(15 ft lbs for reinstall). Later model cars have a crank shaft sensor mounted to the oil pump housing. Remove the two 20 torx bolts holding the sensor to the pump and move it out of the way. Use blue Loctite on the torx when reinstalling the two torx bolts.|
|STEP 7 ||You will notice that the oil pump is a little tight coming off and the reason for this is the alignment pins in the timing cover or the oil pump housing. These pins are used as alignment tools when reinstalling the housing.|
|IMPORTANT: Pack the oil housing/gears of the pump with Vaseline or STP oil treatment to be sure that the engine is capable of pulling oil out of the sump and creating a prime. A better way of priming the oil pump is to remove. The oil filter housing and pour oil down the outer port. You will want a replacement Oil Filter Housing Gasket (#7566433). On my 1991 2.1L 900, noise was not dramatic but persisted for tight or loose belt tensions. After removing all belts, the outer pulley rotated freely from its hub... timing cover damage would have been next. |
While in there, replacing the A/C idler pulley
is easy and not expensive for 86-94 non-turbos.
Water pumps and gaskets are less easy and more
expensive, but any lateral play in its pulley after the belt is released
definitely makes this the time to replace it.
|STEP 8 ||The pulley can be reinstalled by sliding it only the crank and turning slightly until the slot in the pulley is aligned with the carter key on the crank. Make sure that they match and the pulley slides onto the key. You can tighten the pulley by placing a large screwdriver in the flywheel from the bottom of the trans or the top depending on whether or not it is a manual or automatic. Torque specs depend on the year and actual model. See manual.|
|STEP 9 ||Replace belts and MAKE SURE THAT THE OIL LIGHT GOES IT. IF IT DOES NOT THEN THE PUMP DID NOT PRIME. This usually is not an issue though.|
Pricing for 900 79-94 CRANKSHAFT PULLEY & APERTURE DISC (belts & pulleys)
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