Thanks to Phish for contributing to this FAQ!
I have not seen much info anywhere regarding the issue of the braking system vacuum pump on the Saab 9-3 with automatic transmission. I recently experienced failure of this pump and along with it, other maladies that were annoying to say the least. The pump itself rarely fails. When it does, it can lead to brake booster failure and the siphoning of oil into the intake manifold. The vacuum pump is connected to the brake booster and intake manifold via a formed line with two check valves in-line.
In my case, the brake booster was slowly filling with oil leaking from the vacuum pump. The symptom was that the brake pedal would slowly depress itself. I first noticed that the cruise would sometimes shut off because the pedal dropped too far.
In time, I heard a bubbling/gurgling noise coming from the firewall area, which I eventually found was the sound of air leaking through the brake booster diaphragm and bubbling through the oil the booster was full of. Eventually, so much oil accumulated in the booster that the brakes applied themselves so firmly that the car would not move.
What I discovered was that the check valve between the pump and booster failed, but not the valve between the intake manifold and booster. That was how I determined the cause was the vacuum pump. I pulled the booster, sure enough, there was about a quart of oil in it. I pulled the vacuum pump, manually turning the shaft squirted oil out the port that is supposed to suck air. I could also feel a metal on metal grinding sensation. The remedy was a new booster, new vacuum pump, and a new vacuum line. No problems since.
Thanks to Robert Anton for contributing to this FAQ!
Before Replacing the Booster: Symptoms: brake pedal going close to the floor, car hard to stop, hissing noise when pedal depressed. First inspect the BRAKE BOOSTER VACUUM HOSE for vacuum leak and replace if necessary before replacing the booster.
|STEP 1||Disconnect the battery positive cable. Remove the cover under the dashboard( torx bit) and reach to the brake pedal. Remove the pin that connects the brake pedal to the booster by hand. This picture shows the connector after the booster was pulled out already).|
|STEP 2||Remove the air intake to the throttle body.|
|STEP 3||Remove the brake booster vacuum hose pending on your car.|
|STEP 4||Release the fuses and relay box to gain access to on of the booster bracket (do not disconnect). Use 8mm socket on the right side, and pull out from a small bracket on the left side of the box.|
|STEP 5||Remove the master brake pump, two nuts use 13 mm socket. Do not disconnect the brake lines. Brake lines are flexible and wont get damaged.|
|STEP 6||Loosen up the nuts of the 3 brackets holding the booster to the firewall. Do not remove them; use socket 13 mm . See the bracket hidden behind the relay box. The booster has 4 bolts welded and 4 nuts (use 13 mm dip socket). Remove 2 nuts and remove the bracket first! |
|STEP 7||You can now remove the brake booster as the other 2 nuts are accessible. Transfer the brake pedal connector to the new booster shaft.|
|STEP 8||Install the new booster in this order: Connect booster to bracket and tighten the nuts for good. Force in place bracket to firewall and the booster and tighten up last 2 nuts to the booster.|
Make sure you do a Test Drive but hit the brakes first! The brake booster provided by Thesaabsite is manufactured in Czech. Republic by a factory with many years of experience in car Industry.If you follow strictly these steps, it should take you only 3-4 hours to do the job in a relaxed mode. Good luck to you all.
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Pricing for 93 98-03 BRAKE BOOSTER (brakes & related)
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Pricing for 93 98-03 BRAKE BOOSTER VACUUM HOSE (brakes & related)
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Pricing for 95 BRAKE BOOSTER (brakes & related)
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Pricing for 95 BRAKE BOOSTER VACUUM HOSE (brakes & related)