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Crank Sensor Replacement

[Saab 93]

I encountered a problem with this crank sensor. The car wont restart right after stopping and shutting off the engine. Later it didn't start at all. As the car was parked on my driveway I decided to proceed in to changing the sensor myself. Before starting to work on the car is good to print the "Crankshaft sensor breakdown and the tools used. Keep in mind that some of the data is added by users over time so it might be a good idea to read it through before starting the project.

Thanks to Robert Anton for contributing to this FAQ!

Remove A) Engine plastic cover: (gives success to turbo line B) and And Access to the connector of the sensor marked #7

Remove A) Engine plastic cover: (gives success to turbo line B) and And Access to the connector of the sensor marked #7

Tool Used and Schematic Breakdown. You will also need a work light. I hope it helps. Took me about 2 1/2 -3 hours to hear the engine runing again.

Tool Used and Schematic Breakdown

Remove B) & C) Turbo air lines

Remove B) & C) Turbo air lines

Remove D) intake manifold cover (see pics) gives access to the crankshaft sensor cover # 13

Remove crankshaft sensor cover #13 (see pics) to gain access to the sensor; the screw # 10 in pic below (use torx head) holds in place the cover #13 and the sensor #7:

Remove crankshaft sensor cover #13 (see pics) to gain access to the sensor; the screw # 10 in pic below (use torx head) holds in place the cover #13 and the sensor #7:

Remove # 7 the crankshaft sensor by hand or some pliers (see pics below) facing the engine the sensor would be in the right side of the intake manifold

The cable runs along the side of the engine and it is attached to some lines? with the clip #14 in the crank sensor tif picture. I didn't put it back yet

Install the new crankshaft sensor and connect in to the connector shown in pic below. Easy to find after pulling out the sensor. The connector is in the same block with the thermo switch for the cooling fan, behind the engine (under the plastic cover already removed in step one). To put in place the new sensor you might need to use a piece of wood to push it in. I didn't reuse the torx screw for the sensor as it was so hard to take it out. Instead I switch it with the screw that holds in place the aluminium turbo air line C) in pic below.

Thanks to MOTOR WORKS INC LIBETYVILLE ILLINOIS for contributing to this FAQ!

The way it is done in my shop is by removing the belts and tensioners. Then remove the 3 10mm bolts that the ac pulley on the outside of the crank pulley. Then take a 27mm socket and shave it (if you don't have the factory tool) 3/4 inch to allow for clearance. Use a low clearance adapter 1/2 inch to 18mm and attach the socket with a long thin wrench. Use an air hammer and a fork wrench to get the bolt loose.

Thanks to John Williams for contributing to this FAQ!

I replaced my Crank Shaft Sensor after printing out your directions and pictures and found ( as a non-mechanic ) that the job went as planned in approximately the same time you mentioned. I was able to use the original Torx screw to re-connect the sensor to the engine block.

Thanks to Echeban for contributing to this FAQ!

Another way to do it from Echeban: It is easier done from under the car because you can see the bolt holding the cover and the sensor to the engine block, and have more room to get the torx wrench to do the job. I used a torx wrench socket with a little ratchet handle. I lifted the car with a 2&1/2 ton lift, then set stands on the sides under the lift points, lowered and removed the lift. Make sure to have the transmission on P, engage the parking brake, and put wedges front and back of the rear wheels, also make sure the stands are on a hard surface like blacktop or concrete, not soil, and everything is solid before you get under the front of the car!

Also, there is no need to remove the turbo lines. Once you get the plastic cover off, the blue connector is right there, the closest to the engine in a block of three connectors. There is a clamp holding the wire to a tube halfway along the wire. I removed the battery box (easy) and was able to fit my hand between the hoses to reach the clamp and slide it off; same to put it back on. Make sure you don't lose the O-ring that is on the sensor. Relatively easy job. No surprises.

This post should be linked to those on fuel pump and pressure regulator. My car would not start at all no matter how much I cranked it; then I wait for an hour or more and would start like new; no codes on the OBD-II. A few days later, sometimes weeks later, same thing happened. We thought it was fuel and went crazy tracking down that, followed lots of posts on fuel pump, regulator, until last weekend, after a no start and waiting I got it to start but gave me code P0725, so I changed the sensor. It is running nowbut I will not be sure if it is fixed until I use it for a while, though.

Thanks to Brian Mcfarland for contributing to this FAQ!

I was able to change my crank position sensor by disconnecting the exhaust down pipe from the turbo (after disconnect the O2 sensors so I didn't break any wires). This allowed a clear shot at the torx screw so I didn't strip it. If your exhaust nuts/studs don't feel like they will break loose, I would either soak them with PB Blaster or not try to disconnect the
exhaust. The whole job took 1 hour.

Thanks to Brian Mcbride for contributing to this FAQ!

I changed my CPS this morning, in the rain unfortunately. I found the following during the process.

1. It is easier to access from below if you don't remove the exhaust down pipe. Even then it is still a blind fit with the Torx bit. T-30 BTW. Mine came out easily but I did hit it with PB Blaster first. Having a long handled ratchet would have made life easier. Another pair of hands above toensure the Torx bit was engaged would also be a help.

2. I removed the cross over air line from the turbo and loosened the black pipe for the intake and swung that out of the way. I also removed the bracket on the right front of the engine. 2 seconds and gave me more room
to snake the cable and access the clip.

3. If I were to do this again I would remove the exhaust down pipe as that would give clear access from the top. It would have cut the time in half I think as long as the down pipe co-operated. Total time including a trip to the store 1.5 hours.

Thanks to Peter Sackett for contributing to this FAQ!

Great description of the task. My problem was severe loss of power after 30 minutes or so running. No issue with difficult starting. New sensor fixed the power loss problem On my Viggen I found easiest to raise near side (UK) front of car and reach under to access the sensor. Thanks, Peter

Thanks to Jim Seippel for contributing to this FAQ!

I just put a CPS in a 2005 4 cylinder 9-5 Aero this afternoon. The easiest way is to reach down from above. You don't have to remove anything. Reach in from above with a 1/4 drive T30 socket on a 1 inch extension. After you unbolt the old one, twist it a little bit to loosen it and pull it straight out. Push the old one out of the way and insert the new one. You can use a short punch or a nail to line up the screw hole. Then install the cover with the screw in place. It does take a little dexterity to not drop the T30 bolt. Follow the old wire routing. The connector is at the top of the engine. It is the forward most wiring connector in group of three connectors. The entire job took less than 30 minutes including dropping the cover and screw twice.

Jaime Vazquez I changed the CPS on my 1999 Saab 9-5 and like some of the people here mentioned I accessed it from below the car. I have no prior mechanic experience but it was pretty easy following the instructions online. I used a T-30 Torx with a Flexible Ratchet Extension and a bit of patience. The other end of the CPS was attached to a loose cable on my V6, not the engine block, so it was pretty easy. Anyways thanks for the tips!

Pricing for CRANKSHAFT SENSORS (ignition & related)

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