BRAKE PAD & ROTOR REPLACEMENT FRONT

A special thanks to frequent contributor "Rick Cypher" for the contribution of the material listed below. It is guys like him that make it easier for Saab owners to work on their own cars! Kudos Rick!

Pads must be replaced if the actual pad material is less than 5 mm in thickness (0.1969 inches).

Remove the front wheel. (Raise the car first or support it with Jack Stands)

Press the piston back while the caliper is still attached using a pair of channel lock pliers (or screwdriver)

Press the piston back while the caliper is still attached using a pair of channel lock pliers (or screwdriver)

Remove the clip from the front of the caliper by prying it out with a screwdriver

The sprint holding brake caliper in place on a 2003 9-3 cannot be removed by prying it out with a screwdriver. Instead, one needs to push on it towards the front of the caliper. Place the thumbs on the caliper and the fingers on the flat, rear surface of the spring. With your finger, push on the spring until it unhooks from the caliper. You can then remove the spring completely. Installation is a simple reversal of the removal procedure.

Remove the guide pin dustcovers and remove the guide pins (Use Torx T45 ratchet)

Only if replacing Rotors: Remove the two Caliper retaining bolts and hang the complete caliper assembly from the strut with a cable tie. You will only have to hang the front half if you are only doing the pads!

Remove the front half of the caliper and let it rest on the strut with cable tie

Remove the old pads and install the new ones (Note: May need to further compress the piston, I used a clamp)

Install the caliper guide pins/dust pins and torque to 21 foot pounds. Refit the clip for the caliper

Refit the wheels and torque to 81 foot pounds & Lower the car and PRESS THE PEDAL NUMEROUS TIME BEFORE DRIVING (if not, you could run into your garage wall)

Thanks to Ian Perry for contributing to this FAQ!

Additional Notes: (READ BEFORE DOING JOB)

1 - I just did my 1996 SAAB 900 NG, and I would like to make 2 points.
- You do not have to undo the guide pins.
- Remove the caliper and swing it up. Note the position of the angled plate under the caliper bolts.
- Fully extend the caliper on the guide pins
- Remove the outer pad. (this must be done first to allow room to remove the inner pad)
- Remove the inner pad.
- Compress the piston using a clamp or tool.
- Replace the inner pad.
- Replace the outer pad (you will have to wiggle the two caliper halves to get the pad to line up.)
- Reinstall the caliper.

2. Note the position of the spring!
- If you get it wrong, and put the flat face of the spring on the outside of the caliper lip, the caliper will scrape on the wheel, and the pedal will
go almost to the floor. Pumping will restore pressure, but after 10 seconds the pedal will want to go to the floor again. The easiest way to
install them without too much grunting is to install the bottom half of the spring fully in the caliper, then insert the top pin and lever the spring
over the caliper lip to its final position. Make sure the spring fits under the caliper lips.